Feeder Insect Sourcing & Storage Guide

Local Pet Stores

• Pros: Immediate availability, no shipping stress, inspect before buying
• Cons: Limited selection (usually only crickets, mealworms, waxworms), higher per-unit cost, variable quality
• Best for: Emergency feeders, small quantities, beginners testing feeder types

Online Retailers

• Pros: Bulk pricing (30-50% cheaper), wider variety (dubia, BSFL, silkworms, hornworms), guaranteed counts
• Cons: Shipping costs, weather delays, 1-2 day lead time, potential die-off during transit
• Best for: Regular keepers, bulk orders, specialty feeders not available locally

Recommended Online Suppliers

• Rainbow Mealworms: Wide variety, reliable shipping, excellent customer service
• Dubia.com: Specialized in roaches, multiple sizes, starter colonies available
• Josh's Frogs: Premium feeders, amphibian specialists, includes care instructions
• Symton BSF: Black soldier fly larvae specialists, bulk pricing
• ABDragons: Dubias and variety packs, competitive pricing

Starting Your Own Colony

• Dubia roaches: Easiest to breed, mature in 4-5 months, low maintenance once established
• Crickets: Fast reproduction but noisy, smelly, higher die-off rate
• Isopods/Springtails: Self-sustaining in bioactive setups, supplemental feeders only
• Initial investment: $30-60 for starter colony (20-30 adults), pays off in 6-8 months

Crickets (Acheta domesticus)

• Container: Ventilated cricket keeper or plastic bin with screen top (minimum 5 gallons for 100 crickets)
• Temperature: 70-75°F (room temperature ideal; warmer = faster die-off)
• Humidity: Low (~30-40%); high humidity causes bacterial blooms and mass die-offs
• Food/Water: Provide gut-load diet (commercial cricket food, carrots, sweet potato) and water crystals or gel
• Hiding spots: Add egg crate vertically to maximize surface area and reduce cannibalism
• Maintenance: Remove dead crickets DAILY (corpses spread bacteria rapidly), replace food every 2-3 days
• Lifespan in storage: 2-3 weeks with proper care

Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia)

• Container: Opaque plastic tote (roaches prefer darkness) with ventilation holes, 10+ gallon for 100+ roaches
• Temperature: 75-80°F optimal for health; 85-90°F for breeding. Below 70°F = sluggish, won't breed
• Humidity: 40-60% (light misting once weekly or damp sponge in corner)
• Food: Fresh vegetables (carrots, squash, sweet potato), dry dog food, commercial roach chow. Remove uneaten food after 48 hours.
• Hiding spots: Stack egg crates vertically; roaches need tight spaces to feel secure
• Maintenance: Spot-clean frass (droppings) monthly, full substrate change every 3-4 months
• Lifespan: 1-2 years; colony can be self-sustaining with proper care

Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL / Phoenix Worms / Calciworms)

• Container: Keep in original shipping container or shallow dish (they don't climb or burrow)
• Temperature: Refrigerate at 50-55°F to pause development and extend lifespan
• Room temp: Will pupate into flies within 1-2 weeks; only store at room temp if using quickly
• Food/Water: NONE required; they're self-sustaining and naturally gut-loaded
• Maintenance: Check weekly for pupae (black, hard casings); remove and discard or let pupate for enrichment
• Lifespan: 2-3 weeks refrigerated, 1 week at room temperature

Hornworms (Manduca sexta)

• Container: Keep in original cup with food; do NOT transfer (they're delicate)
• Temperature: Room temperature (70-75°F); they grow RAPIDLY (can double in size in 48 hours)
• Refrigeration: 50-55°F slows growth slightly but doesn't stop it
• Food: Comes with hornworm chow; DO NOT feed tomato leaves (toxic)
• Maintenance: Remove frass (black droppings) every 2-3 days; condensation is normal
• Lifespan: 1 week at room temp (they outgrow most animals quickly); order small sizes

Waxworms (Galleria mellonella)

• Container: Original cup or shallow dish with bedding (sawdust/bran mix)
• Temperature: Refrigerate at 55-60°F to slow development; room temp = rapid pupation
• Food: NONE required (they live off stored body fat)
• Maintenance: Remove condensation weekly (shake off lid); discard any pupae (cocoons) or moths
• Lifespan: 2-3 weeks refrigerated, 1 week at room temperature

Silkworms (Bombyx mori)

• Container: Ventilated plastic container, cleaned daily (very sensitive to waste buildup)
• Temperature: 75-80°F; below 70°F = slow growth, above 85°F = stress
• Food: ONLY fresh mulberry leaves or commercial silkworm chow (Silkworm Chow brand)
• Maintenance: Remove frass and uneaten food DAILY; silkworms are extremely sensitive to bacteria
• Lifespan: 4-6 weeks from hatching to pupation; must be used before cocooning

Mealworms & Superworms (Tenebrio & Zophobas)

• Container: Shallow plastic container (they can't climb smooth surfaces)
• Temperature: 70-75°F for mealworms, 75-80°F for superworms; refrigerate mealworms at 45-50°F to extend lifespan
• Substrate: Wheat bran, oats, or commercial bedding (2-3 inches deep)
• Food: Carrots, potatoes, or commercial gut-load placed on top of substrate
• Maintenance: Sift out frass monthly, replace substrate every 2-3 months
• Lifespan: Mealworms 8-10 weeks refrigerated, superworms 3-6 months at room temp

• Buy smaller quantities more frequently: Fresher feeders = better nutrition, less waste from die-offs
• Gut-load for 24-48 hours: Feed nutritious diet (commercial gut-load, vegetables) before feeding to your animals
• Quarantine new shipments: Keep new feeders separate for 24 hours to monitor for disease/parasites
• Label containers: Include date received and quantity to track freshness
• Temperature monitoring: Use stick-on thermometer strips on storage containers
• Separate species: NEVER mix feeder types (cross-contamination, disease, predation)
• Emergency backup: Keep multiple feeder types on hand in case of die-offs or shipping delays

• Mass die-offs: Usually caused by high humidity, ammonia buildup, or temperature extremes. Increase ventilation, clean more frequently, check temperature.
• Foul odor: Sign of bacterial bloom or dead feeders. Remove all dead insects immediately, sanitize container, reduce moisture.
• Feeders escaping: Ensure smooth container walls, tight-fitting lids, no condensation (creates grip). Apply petroleum jelly band at top of container.
• Slow feeder growth/breeding: Temperature too low, inadequate food/water, overcrowding. Increase temp 5-10°F, provide fresh food daily, thin out population.
• Pupation before use: Feeders stored too warm. Refrigerate waxworms, mealworms, BSFL to slow development. Order smaller hornworms.
• Mold in containers: Excess moisture or uneaten food. Increase ventilation, remove food after 48 hours, reduce misting.