Leopard geckos are insectivores requiring a varied diet of live insects dusted with supplements. Proper feeding frequency, portion sizes, and supplementation are critical for healthy growth and preventing Metabolic Bone Disease.
Feeding frequency and portion sizes change as leopard geckos mature. Hatchlings require daily feeding while adults thrive on 2-3 times per week schedules.
| Age Category | Length | Feeding Frequency | Portion Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hatchling (0-4 months) | 3-5 inches | Daily | As many appropriately sized insects as they will eat in 10-15 minutes | Critical growth period; NEVER skip days |
| Juvenile (4-12 months) | 5-7 inches | Every other day | 2 insects per inch of gecko length (e.g., 6" gecko = 12 insects) | Growth slows but still rapid; monitor weight |
| Young Adult (12-18 months) | 7-9 inches | Every 2-3 days | 2 insects per inch of gecko length | Nearing adult size; adjust feeding to maintain healthy weight |
| Adult (18+ months) | 7-10 inches | Every 3-4 days | 2 insects per inch of gecko length | Fully grown; focus on maintaining body condition, not growth |
| Breeding Females (Active) | 7-10 inches | Every 2 days | Increase portions 25-50% during breeding season | Higher nutritional demands from egg production |
Overfeeding is Common: Adult leopard geckos can become obese from too-frequent feeding. Plump tail is normal, but excessive fat deposits in armpits or belly indicates overfeeding. Adjust frequency or portion sizes if gecko becomes obese.
Portion Sizing Rule: Feed 2 appropriately sized insects per inch of gecko body length (excluding tail). Example: 8-inch adult = 16 medium crickets or 12 large dubia roaches every 3-4 days.
Variety is essential for balanced nutrition. Rotate between at least 3-4 different feeder types to prevent nutritional deficiencies. No single insect provides complete nutrition.
| Feeder Insect | Nutritional Profile | Frequency | Size Guidelines | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Crickets (Acheta) | Balanced protein/fat; good staple | 2-3x per week | Smaller than space between gecko's eyes | Gut-load 24hr before feeding; remove uneaten crickets (bite geckos) |
| Dubia Roaches | High protein, moderate fat; excellent staple | 2-3x per week | Half the gecko's head width | Cannot climb glass; quiet; longer lifespan than crickets; harder shell than crickets |
| Discoid Roaches | Similar to dubias; slightly higher moisture | 2-3x per week | Half the gecko's head width | Legal in Florida (where dubias banned); slower breeding |
| Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL) | High calcium (natural Ca:P ratio); lower protein | 1-2x per week | Medium to large larvae | Excellent calcium source; reduces supplementation needs slightly |
| Mealworms | High fat, lower protein; treat food | 1x per week max | Medium mealworms for adults | Offer in dish (cannot escape); high chitin content (hard to digest in excess) |
| Superworms | Very high fat; occasional treat only | Every 2-3 weeks | Large superworms for adults only | Can bite geckos; supervise feeding; NOT for juveniles |
| Hornworms | High moisture, low fat; excellent hydration source | 1-2x per week | Medium to large | Expensive; grows fast; good for picky eaters or shedding geckos |
| Silkworms | Balanced nutrition, easy to digest | 1-2x per week | Medium to large | Expensive; requires fresh mulberry leaves or chow; excellent sick/recovering gecko food |
| Grasshoppers (Wild-Caught UNSAFE) | High protein if captive-bred | Occasionally if sourced from reputable breeder | Remove hind legs (choking hazard) | NEVER wild-caught (pesticide risk); must be captive-bred |
Avoid These Insects: NEVER feed wild-caught insects (pesticides/parasites), fireflies/lightning bugs (TOXIC - fatal), boxelder bugs, or any glowing insects. Do NOT feed insects larger than the space between gecko's eyes (choking/impaction risk).
Recommended Feeding Rotation Example:
- Monday: Dubia roaches (staple)
- Thursday: Crickets (staple)
- Sunday: Black soldier fly larvae (high calcium) OR hornworms (hydration)
- Wednesday (next week): Discoid roaches OR silkworms (variety)
- Occasional treats: Mealworms every 10-14 days as dietary enrichment
Leopard geckos require calcium and vitamin D3 to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). The easiest approach is using an all-in-one supplement powder at every feeding.
Recommended All-In-One Supplements:
- Repashy Calcium Plus LoD (Low D): Best overall option for UVB-equipped enclosures. Lower D3 levels prevent overdose when gecko synthesizes D3 from UVB exposure. Use at EVERY feeding.
- Arcadia EarthPro-A: European equivalent to Repashy LoD. Balanced for use with UVB lighting. Use at EVERY feeding.
- Avoid: Separate calcium/multivitamin schedules are outdated and increase risk of imbalances. All-in-one simplifies supplementation.
Dusting Instructions:
- Place feeder insects in plastic container or ziplock bag
- Add small pinch of supplement powder (1/4 teaspoon for 10-12 insects)
- Gently shake/rotate container to coat insects evenly
- Insects should appear lightly dusted - NOT caked in powder (excessive powder = gecko refuses food)
- Offer immediately after dusting (powder shakes off insects over time)
- Dust at EVERY feeding if using Repashy LoD or Arcadia EarthPro-A
Supplementation Critical with UVB: Even with proper UVB lighting, leopard geckos benefit from supplemental calcium and vitamins. UVB provides D3 synthesis pathway but does not provide calcium, vitamin A, or other micronutrients. Always supplement.
Gut-loading is feeding nutritious foods to feeder insects 24 hours before offering them to your gecko. The gecko receives nutrition from both the insect and its gut contents.
Effective Gut-Load Foods:
- Commercial Gut-Load: Repashy Bug Burger, Mazuri Better Bug, Cricket Crack (most convenient and balanced)
- Dark Leafy Greens: Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (NOT iceberg lettuce - zero nutrition)
- Squash: Butternut squash, zucchini (vitamin A source)
- Sweet Potato: Baked sweet potato chunks (vitamin A)
- Carrots: Grated or thin slices (beta-carotene)
- Avoid: Spinach (binds calcium), citrus fruits (too acidic), onions/garlic (toxic), high-moisture foods (cause die-off)
Gut-Loading Schedule:
- Feed gut-load foods to feeder insects 24 hours BEFORE offering to gecko
- For continuous colony maintenance: Always provide commercial gut-load diet + water crystals
- Refresh gut-load foods every 2-3 days to prevent mold
- Remove uneaten gut-load before it spoils
Dish Feeding (Recommended for Slow Insects):
- Use shallow ceramic dish (1-2 inches tall) placed near warm hide
- Best for: mealworms, superworms, black soldier fly larvae (cannot escape)
- Pros: Gecko can eat at own pace; reduces stress
- Cons: Not suitable for fast insects (crickets, roaches can escape)
Free-Range Feeding (For Active Insects):
- Release dusted insects into enclosure near gecko
- Best for: crickets, dubia roaches, discoid roaches
- Pros: Stimulates hunting behavior; enrichment
- Cons: Uneaten crickets can bite gecko at night - ALWAYS remove within 20 minutes
Tong Feeding (For Picky Eaters):
- Hold dusted insect with blunt feeding tongs, wiggle in front of gecko to trigger prey drive
- Best for: hornworms, silkworms, roaches
- Pros: Ensures gecko eats; useful for sick/recovering geckos
- Cons: Time-intensive; can cause dependency (gecko refuses non-tong-fed insects)
Remove Uneaten Crickets: Crickets become aggressive when hungry and will bite leopard geckos, especially during shed or at night when gecko is sleeping. ALWAYS remove uneaten crickets within 20 minutes of feeding.
| Issue | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Refuses to eat 1-2 weeks | Shedding cycle (normal), temperatures too low, stress, gravid female (egg production) | Check temps (basking 94-97F), reduce handling, provide humid hide. If persists >3 weeks, vet check. |
| Only eats one insect type | Dietary boredom, poor gut-loading of refused insects, previous negative experience | Try tong feeding new insects, gut-load thoroughly, starve gecko 5-7 days then offer only new insect type. |
| Regurgitates food | Temperatures too low after eating (cannot digest), prey too large, handled immediately after eating | Verify basking spot 94-97F, feed appropriately sized insects, NEVER handle within 24hr of feeding. |
| Loses weight despite eating | Parasites, insufficient feeding frequency, poor supplementation, temps too low | Fecal exam for parasites, increase feeding frequency, verify supplement at EVERY feeding, check temps. |
| Obese with fat deposits | Overfeeding frequency, too many high-fat insects (mealworms, superworms) | Reduce feeding to every 4-5 days, eliminate high-fat treats for 2-3 months, add climbing enrichment for exercise. |
| Aggressive toward keeper during feeding | Food aggression (common), mistaking fingers for food | Use feeding tongs ALWAYS, never hand-feed, avoid moving hands quickly near gecko during feeding time. |
| Hunts but does not catch prey | Vision issues, neurological problems (Enigma syndrome if applicable) | Vet check for eye issues, tong-feed or dish-feed instead of free-range. |
Winter Cooling / Brumation:
- Some leopard geckos naturally reduce appetite in winter months (November-February in Northern Hemisphere)
- Gecko may eat 50-75% less or refuse food for 2-4 weeks - this is NORMAL if gecko is healthy going into winter
- Do NOT force-feed; continue offering food on schedule but do not panic if refused
- Maintain temps and UVB as normal (do NOT reduce unless intentionally brumating for breeding)
- Monitor weight - if gecko loses >10% body weight, consult vet
Feeding Sick or Recovering Geckos:
- Use soft-bodied insects: hornworms, silkworms, black soldier fly larvae (easier to digest than crickets/roaches)
- Offer smaller, more frequent meals (every 2 days vs. every 4 days)
- Tong-feed to ensure gecko eats
- Dust with supplements as usual - nutrition critical for recovery
- Consider carnivore care powder (e.g., Oxbow Carnivore Care) mixed with water if gecko refuses insects - vet guidance recommended
Feeding Best Practice: Feed leopard geckos at dusk or early evening (6-8 PM) when they naturally become active. Avoid feeding during day (gecko is sleeping) or late night (gecko winds down). Crepuscular activity pattern = highest prey drive at sunset.
Keeping feeder insects healthy ensures your gecko receives maximum nutrition. Poor insect care = poor gecko nutrition.
Cricket Storage:
- House in well-ventilated plastic bin with egg crate for surface area
- 70-75F temperature (room temp acceptable)
- Provide commercial cricket food OR gut-load diet + water crystals (NO water dish - crickets drown)
- Remove dead crickets daily (cannibalism and odor issues)
- Lifespan: 6-8 weeks; order weekly or bi-weekly for freshness
Dubia Roach Storage:
- House in smooth-sided plastic bin with egg crate
- 75-85F for breeding colony; 70-75F for maintenance (slows reproduction)
- Provide commercial roach chow + fresh fruits/vegetables for moisture
- Very low odor compared to crickets
- Lifespan: 1-2 years; establish breeding colony to reduce costs
Mealworm/Superworm Storage:
- Store in shallow plastic container with oats or bran as substrate
- 50-60F (refrigerator) for long-term storage (slows metamorphosis)
- Room temp (70-75F) if feeding within 2 weeks
- Provide carrot slices or potato for moisture every 3-4 days
- Lifespan: 8-12 weeks refrigerated; 3-4 weeks at room temp before pupating