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Feeding Guide for White's Tree Frogs

Community Reviewed

White's Tree Frogs are voracious eaters prone to obesity. This guide covers the right feeder selection, portion control, schedules, supplements, and red flags to keep your frog at a healthy weight.

Feeder Types

Providing dietary variety is essential for optimal nutrition while avoiding obesity. White's Tree Frogs will overeat if given the chance, so stick to scheduled feeding and appropriate portion sizes. Here's a detailed breakdown of the best feeder insects:

Feeder Sizing Guide: The feeder should be no larger than the space between your frog's eyes. Too large = potential choking/impaction risk.

Staple Feeders

Crickets (Acheta domesticus)
The gold standard staple feeder. High in protein (21%), readily available, and affordable. Crickets are active and trigger strong hunting responses. Brown crickets are hardier and longer-lived, making them the most popular choice. Gut-load for 24-48 hours before feeding.

Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia)
Premium feeder option with 36% protein and excellent calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (1:3). Don't smell, can't climb glass, live 1-2 years, and are quieter than crickets. Many frogs initially ignore them due to lack of movement, but can be trained to accept them with feeding tongs. Ideal for adult frogs.

Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Hermetia illucens)
Also called Phoenix Worms or Calciworms. Naturally high in calcium (Ca:P ratio 1.5:1), no dusting needed! Low in fat, making them perfect for obesity-prone species. Excellent movement triggers hunting. Use as 25-30% of diet rotation. Great for juveniles due to soft body.

Silkworms (Bombyx mori)
Low-fat, high-protein option with good vitamin B profile. Soft-bodied and easy to digest. Excellent for finicky eaters or sick frogs. Require fresh mulberry leaves or commercial chow. More expensive but very nutritious. Use as 15-20% of diet variety.

Hornworms (Manduca sexta)
Excellent hydration source (85% water content). Low in fat, high in calcium. Fast-growing - buy small or they outgrow your frog quickly! Bright green color and vigorous movement make them irresistible. Great for variety and hydration during warm months. Feed 1-2 per week.

Treats & Special Occasions

Waxworms (Galleria mellonella)
The 'candy' of feeder insects - 22% fat content! Use sparingly as a treat or for underweight frogs needing rapid weight gain. Highly palatable; frogs will preferentially hunt these over healthier options. Limit to 1-2 waxworms per month for adults.

Isopods & Springtails (Cleanup Crew)
In bioactive setups, frogs may occasionally hunt these. They're harmless and actually beneficial - high in calcium, naturally gut-loaded from consuming organic matter. Don't count as primary feeders, but provide enrichment and trace minerals.

Avoid: Fireflies (toxic), wild-caught insects (pesticides), mealworms as staple diet (impaction risk), earthworms from unknown sources (parasites).

Obesity Warning: White's Tree Frogs are extremely prone to obesity. Never feed more than recommended amounts. An overweight frog will have fat deposits above the eyes and around the body. If your frog looks 'chubby', reduce portions and monitor weight.

Feeding Schedule

Tree frogs are nocturnal hunters. Always feed at night (after lights go off) when they're naturally active.

Pro Tip: Feed in complete darkness for 30-60 minutes, then remove uneaten feeders. Leftover crickets can bite sleeping frogs and cause stress.

Feeding Frequency by Age:

  • Juveniles: Every night (daily)
  • Sub-adults: Every other night (4-5x week)
  • Adults: Every 2-3 nights (avoid overfeeding)

Sourcing & Storing Feeders

Need feeder sourcing help? Check out our comprehensive Feeder Insect Sourcing & Storage Guide ->

Covers where to buy (local vs online), proper storage temperatures for each feeder type, container setups, colony management, and troubleshooting common issues.

Quick tips specific to White's Tree Frogs:

  • Buy smaller quantities (50-100 crickets) more frequently rather than bulk to ensure freshness
  • Gut-load crickets for 24-48 hours before feeding with commercial gut-load or vegetables
  • Store dubia roaches at 75-80 deg F for long-term colony; they can last months with minimal care
  • Refrigerate BSFL at 50-55 deg F to slow growth; these are naturally calcium-rich
  • Keep waxworms refrigerated and use sparingly - they're high in fat

Supplements & Gut-Loading

Feeder insects must be properly supplemented to prevent metabolic bone disease and other deficiencies.

  • Calcium + D3: Dust feeders following product recommendation (typically 2-3x a week)
  • Multivitamin: Dust feeders following product recommendation (typically 1x a week)
  • Gut-loading: Feed crickets nutritious food 24 hours before feeding to frogs

Gut-Load Recipe: carrots, sweet potato, commercial gut-load powder

Common Feeding Mistakes

  • Overfeeding: Most common cause of health issues - frogs will eat until obese
  • Feeding during the day: Frogs won't hunt effectively in daylight
  • Feeders too large: Can cause impaction or choking - feeder should be smaller than the gap between frog's eyes
  • No supplementation: Leads to metabolic bone disease over time
  • Wild-caught insects: Risk of pesticide exposure and parasites
  • Leaving crickets overnight: Crickets can bite and stress frogs, many keepers have not reported issues as long as enclosure is proper size.

Monitoring Health

Watch for these signs of proper feeding:

  • Active hunting behavior at night
  • Regular, firm droppings (not runny)
  • Smooth skin without fat deposits
  • Alert and responsive
  • Normal weight for age

Warning Signs: Lethargy, refusing food for 7+ days (adults) or 2-3 days (juveniles), visible bones, difficulty moving, abnormal feces - consult an exotic vet immediately.

Quick Reference Schedule

Weight Check: Weigh your frog monthly. If gaining rapidly or showing fat deposits, reduce portions. If not gaining weight, try increasing feeding frequency.